Riding a bicycle at a soothing pace is an excellent way to roam through Kaohsiung, and discover the full depth and breadth of the city. By following Chen Jhong-li, a well-known cycling writer, travelers can explore seldom-visited corners, the city's long coastline, endless country roads, and the steep mountains and valleys of Kaohsiung.
Visitors will find it worth slowing down so as to enjoy Kaohsiung's rich landforms. “Traveling by bike is like filming,” says Chen. “If you drive a car, the speed makes the scene become blurry. On the other hand, when you walk, you see the scene too clearly. Riding a bike allows you to see the contours of the scenery, while giving you a sense of mobility.”
Chen lives in Taipei, but often passes through Kaohsiung when cycling around the island. In recent years, he has been deeply impressed by Kaohsiung's dramatic transformation. “I used to see many factory smokestacks, but now I see the changing culture and infrastructure. The streets have become neat and clean,” he says.
He speaks highly of the West Side Harbor Line Bike Path, which was built on a former railway line. “The next time I go to Kaohsiung, for sure I won't drive. I'll ride my bike around the city until my heart's content,” Chen says.
The urban cycling route Chen Jhong-li most recommends connects Cijin with Sizihwan. He says: “The great charm of the Cijin route is that you can look at Kaohsiung's harbor from different angles.”
He suggests cycling from Dengshan Street to National Sun Yat-sen University, chasing the warm sea breezes in Sizihwan, then taking a ferry to Cijin. It requires some effort to ride up the hill to Cihou's lighthouse and fort, but Chen describes it as a “personal must-go cycling route.”
When you reach the lighthouse, he advises following the trail to the fort: “There you'll have a 360-degree view, with the harbor on one side and Cijin Island on the other. You'll enjoy panoramic views of the city as well as of the mountain and the sea.”
From the fort, head to Cijin Fish Market. There, a delicious meal of freshly-prepared seafood will wipe away the fatigue of cycling. Chen also recommends heading south, if you have enough energy. After taking the ferry from Jhongjhou on Cijin, you can ride to Love Pier, Glory Pier, and other spots from which you can experience various views of Kaohsiung's harbor.
Beyond the city, travelers can immerse themselves in the legends and stories of tribes hidden in the mountains of Kaohsiung. Chen Jhong-li has repeatedly visited the Hla'alua people in Taoyuan District and the Kanakanavu people in Namasia District by bicycle. “Riding to these tribal communities helps you better understand the local geography and natural environment,” he says.
Kaohsiung is like a prism. As the angle changes, the varying brilliance of different colors becomes visible. If you cycle around Kaohsiung, you are sure to discover the city's most alluring and tranquil corners.
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