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2022/02/11 第370期 訂閱/退訂看歷史報份
紐時周報精選 Social Media Is Unreliable In Publishing 社群百萬人氣 未必能轉化為書籍買氣
We’re Drowning in Celebrity Beauty Brands 名人瘋創美妝品牌 粉絲應接不暇
Social Media Is Unreliable In Publishing 社群百萬人氣 未必能轉化為書籍買氣
文/Elizabeth A. Harris

社群百萬人氣 未必能轉化為書籍買氣

A book by Billie Eilish seemed like a great bet. One of the most famous pop stars in the world, Eilish has 97 million followers on Instagram and another 6 million on Twitter. If just a fraction of them bought her book, it would be a hit.


But her self-titled book has sold about 64,000 hardcover copies since it came out in May, according to NPD BookScan, which tracks most printed books sold in the United States — not necessarily a disappointing number, unless Eilish got a big advance. Which, of course, she did. The book cost her publisher well over $1 million.

不過,追蹤美國多數印刷書籍銷量的出版業數據商NPD BookScan資料顯示,她這本同名書5月上市以來,賣了大約6萬4000本精裝本。除非怪奇比莉得到一大筆預付金,銷售數字不算太差,當然,她的確收到了。這本書花了出版社超過100萬美元。

It’s difficult to predict whether a book will be a hit. Every book is different, an individual work of art or culture, so when the publishing industry tries to forecast demand for new titles, it is, however thoughtfully, guessing. Because there are so few reliable metrics to look at, social-media followings have become some of the main data points publishers use to try to make their guesses more educated.


An author’s following has become a standard part of the equation when publishers are deciding whether to acquire a book. Followings can affect who gets a book deal and how big an advance that author is paid, especially when it comes to nonfiction. But despite their importance, they are increasingly seen as unpredictable gauges of how well a book is actually going to sell.


Even having one of the biggest social-media followings in the world is not a guarantee.


“The only reliable part about it,” said Shannon DeVito, director of books at Barnes & Noble, “is that it’s unreliable.”


An author’s platform has long been something publishers look at — does she have a radio show, for example, or a regular guest spot on TV? But as local news outlets and book coverage have dwindled, the avenues for book publicity have shrunk, making an author’s ability to help get the word out more crucial.

And when an author speaks to her followers about a book she wrote, she is talking to people who are at least a little bit interested in what she has to share.


“It’s become more and more important as the years went on,” said Marc Resnick, executive editor at St. Martin’s Press. “We learned some hard lessons along the way, which is that a tweet or a post is not necessarily going to sell any books, if it’s not the right person with the right book and the right followers at the right time.”


We’re Drowning in Celebrity Beauty Brands 名人瘋創美妝品牌 粉絲應接不暇
文/Rachel Strugatz

名人瘋創美妝品牌 粉絲應接不暇

Anya Dua, the 17-year-old founder of Gen Z Identity Lab, an online platform for Gen Zers to express their views on politics, mental health, climate change and culture, remembers the first (and last) time she bought makeup from a celebrity beauty brand.


She was 12 and used her mom’s credit card to order a $29 Kylie Lip Kit in Candy K, a matte pink liquid lipstick and matching lip liner. Kylie Jenner’s debut makeup product sold out in seconds when it went on sale in 2015 (the website crashed, too), catapulting the youngest Kardashian-Jenner sibling to beauty mogul status at age 18.


“It was a huge thing,” Dua said. “You needed to have one.” Lip Kits became so popular that they hit the New York City bar and bat mitzvah circuit.

Emcees would toss the liquid lip colors and liners into a sea of dancing tweens in bandage dresses.


Fast-forward five years.


The global beauty market, which last year generated nearly $500 billion in sales, according to Euromonitor, a research firm, is teeming with celebrities, inundating social media feeds with lip gloss, face lotion and, most recently, vibrators (not technically beauty but beauty adjacent), with the promise of plump lips, glowing skin and a better sex life.


New lines come out at a dizzying rate. There’s Harry Styles’ Pleasing, nail polish in tiny glass jars that look like old-fashioned perfume bottles, and Machine Gun Kelly’s UN/DN LAQR, nail polish with “paint splatter” shades and brushes for nail art.

新品問世速度之快,讓人眼花撩亂:有英國歌手哈利史泰爾斯自創品牌Pleasing,把指甲油裝在迷你玻璃罐,看來像老派的香水瓶;有美國歌手機關槍凱利自創品牌UN/DN LAQR,用「潑漆」色調和刷頭的指甲油做指甲彩繪。

Ariana Grande has a new makeup line, space-themed, as does Chiara Ferragni, pink and sparkly. Billie Eilish and Addison Rae have released fragrances.

There’s Lori Harvey’s (daughter of Steve Harvey) SKN by LH skin care collection, and Demi Lovato’s Demi Wand, an eight-speed vibrator (created with Bellesa, an internet pornography site marketed to women).

美國歌手亞莉安娜推出新的美妝產品線,以太空為主題,義大利時尚網紅琪亞拉法拉格尼也是,粉色且閃閃發亮。美國歌手怪奇比莉和網紅艾蒂森蕾都發布香水產品。還有洛瑞哈維(美國電視主持人史蒂夫哈維的女兒)的SKN by LH護膚系列,以及美國歌手黛咪洛瓦特的Demi Wand八段變速按摩棒(與鎖定女性的成人網站Bellesa合作)。

Hailey Bieber has just confirmed that her Rhode Beauty will go on sale next year. (Rhode is her middle name.)


It’s starting to feel like satire. When the Alex Rodriguez concealer for men (a creation with Hims & Hers) landed in May and populated celebrity news accounts like The Shade Room, commenters thought it was a joke.

這開始讓人覺得諷刺。美國職棒退役球星A-Rod推出的男性遮瑕膏(與遠距醫療新創公司Hims & Hers合作)5月上市,並受到The Shade Room這類名人新聞帳號大幅報導時,一些評論家覺得不過是個玩笑。

“When I see a celebrity beauty brand, I just don’t buy it,” Dua said.



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