After visiting Taipei’s heritage sites and related attractions, there’s no better immersive experience for those looking to gain insight into local traditional culture than the city’s morning markets! At 5 or 6 each morning, as the sky lightens these markets get busier, raising the curtain on another day. At 7 or 8 the streams of shoppers get ever heavier, and the buzz of conversation and interactions that punctuate the vigorous city morning is in full throttle. If you find yourself up early, try taking in one of Taipei’s morning markets, prime stages for the city’s warm, friendly, hospitable demeanor.
Dadaocheng Morning Markets – A Look at Life in the Old Days
In the past, people commonly went to temples in the early morning to worship the deities, and then bought fruits and vegetables from sellers in front. Over time, more formal morning markets formed in these spots, opening at different times and selling different things, with fruit and veggie sellers opening at 6 am and small eateries opening at 8 am. The market would shut down around 4 or 5 in the afternoon, so people could come and shop anytime in the day.
Liangzhou Street (涼州街), before Cisheng Temple (慈聖宮) in the Dadaocheng (大稻埕) area, is home to some of Taipei’s most famous morning-market food stalls. Vendors start opening around 9 am, and close up around 3 pm. Just about every stand here has been in operation for at least a half-century, and everything from salty porridge with soy-braised pork to pork-rib soup is a local classic. To sit under a shady tree with other patrons, tucking into a piping-hot dish, is to experience the life local commonfolk have lived for many decades. Also in Dadaocheng is Yongle Market (永樂市場); visit after 11 am to explore this grand bazaar of fabrics, as well as its food-court area, home to A-Fa’s Snack Shop (阿發小吃店) and A-Wen’s Keelung Seafood (阿文基隆海產), both featured in Luc Besson’s film Lucy, which has made them places of pilgrimage for movie fans.
Beside Exit 2 of MRT Shuanglian Station (捷運雙連站), you’ll see the 300~400 meter-long Shuanglian Vegetable Market (雙連菜市場). From 7 to 8 each morning grandmoms and moms pack the place, which in addition to selling the freshest fruits and vegetables, chicken, duck, and other meats, even offers manicures and traditional face-hair removal called wanmian (挽面) or “facial threading.” Shuanglian Market (雙連市場), a public market in a 4-storey building, has sellers of plants and flowers, antiques, and fresh fruits and veggies, plus something most unusual – a youth hostel. The bright, fresh CU Hotel Taipei (西悠飯店台北店), on the second floor, is a model example of old-market rejuvenation.
Wanhua District Morning Markets –
Home of One of the “World’s Best Vendors”
The Wanhua District was the first area to be settled in what is today Taipei. At its heart are Manka Lungshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺), Bangka Qingshan Temple (艋舺青山宮), and Bangka Qingshui Zushi Temple (艋舺清水巖祖師廟), and other venerable places of worship. The East Sanshui Street Market (東三水街菜市場), also known as the Xinfu Market (新富市場), was built and has been in operation since 1921, and many businesses have been passed on from generation to generation. One renowned example is Da Fong Fish Ball (大豐魚丸店), which offers many different types of wonderfully fresh and chewy fish balls, meatballs, squid balls, etc., all made by hand and only to order. Grandma’s Sticky Rice (阿婆油飯), which cooks its rice with wooden bamboo steamers, once placed third in the “World’s Best Vendor” (天下第一攤) competition held by Taipei City Government. Nearby Wanhe Sashimi (丸合生魚片) brings in the fresh catch of the day each day from wholesale markets in Keelung (基隆), and Donggang Township, Pingtung County (屏東縣東港鎮). Each of these spots prepares super-popular delicacies at affordable prices.
On Kangding Road (康定路) you’ll find Zhixing Market (直興市場), where the stands selling fresh meats, sashimi, and fruits are most popular. The “Yangmingshan Farms” (陽明山農場) stand, a seller of many different in-season fresh vegetables, has an extra-especial place in shoppers’ hearts. Mama Zhang’s Chicken Shop (張媽媽雞肉鋪) is another well-known and very popular vendor; its salted chicken and sugarcane chicken are prepared each evening for sale next day, first cooked and then smoked using sugarcane skin, rendering the meat succulently tender. The shop is always busy with customers placing take-out orders to enjoy back home.
A New Kind of Morning Market –
Like a Mini Department Store
In recent years a number of old Taipei markets have taken on a completely new atmosphere with the help of government planners. Emphasis has been on better flow lines and redesigned lighting, giving visitors the feeling of browsing a small department store. Huguang Market (湖光市場) is Neihu’s oldest vendor-stall market, selling fresh fish, meats, fruits, and vegetables, as well as many regional-specialties, dry goods, sundries, etc. Among the most popular shops selling yummy snacks here are Ding Ding Sesame Cakes (鼎鼎燒餅) and Xieji Zhenbao Food Village (謝記珍寶食品莊). Elsewhere, Nanmen Market (南門市場) on Roosevelt Road (羅斯福路) is one of Taipei’s oldest traditional public markets. The first floor is choc-a-bloc with regional specialty goods, while the second floor has clothing and the basement level is a wet market. You’ll find northern Chinese flavored pastries and puddings, regional specialty items, and many well-known sauces and prepared foods. If you make time to go, be sure to visit the Shanghai Hexing Rice Cake Shop (上海合興糕糰店), Yi-chang’s Imperial Workshop (億長御坊), and Yi Xiang Zhai (逸湘齋), where craftsmanship and long tradition are on proud display.
Markets Morning and Night –
Fun Browsing the Whole Day Long
Morning markets customarily shut down in the afternoon. But sometimes, generally in favorable locations, business continues beyond this, as the area becomes a distinctly different night market. Jingmei Market (景美市場), close to Shih Hsin University (世新大學), and Zhonglun Market (中崙市場) on Bade Road (八德路), both see streams of shoppers from the early morning onward, and at about 7 pm each market transforms into a foodie mecca for students finishing classes and white-collar workers leaving the office. Both markets have been in operation for about 50 years, and of course each offers its own renowned specialties. At Jingmei Market, be sure to visit Gaoji Rice Noodle Soup (高記米粉湯), and Shanghai Pan-Fried Pork Buns (上海生煎包). At Zhonglun Market don’t miss A-Mei’s Madou Bowl Pudding (阿美麻豆碗粿) and Zhonglun Rice Noodle Soup (中崙米粉湯). All are delicious early-morning taste-bud energizers, all worth a visit.
Solon, the ancient Greek statesman and poet, once said, “The purpose of travel is to ‘see.’ To see is to promote understanding and appreciation of the other peoples, cultures, and places.” Walk Taipei’s morning markets, observe the Taipei culture, taste the flavors of the city, enjoy its hospitality, and you’ll see that its dynamism and vitality is already up-and-running early each morning.
Liangzhou Street Morning Market 涼州街早市
Add: 17, Ln. 49, Baoan St.; before Cisheng Temple
(保安街49巷17號; 慈聖宮前)
Yongle Market 永樂市場
Add: 21, Sec. 1, Dihua St. (迪化街1段21號)
Shuanglian Market 雙連市場
Add: 198, Minsheng W. Rd. (民生西路198號)
East Sanshui Street Market (Xinfu Market)
東三水街菜市場 (新富市場)
Add: 70, Sanshui St. (三水街70號)
Zhixing Market 直興市場
Add: 1, Ln. 172, Kangding Rd. (康定路172巷1號)
Huguang Market 湖光市場
Add: Ln. 23, Sec. 4, Chenggong Rd. (成功路4段23巷)
Nanmen Market 南門市場
Add: 8, Sec. 1, Roosevelt Rd. (羅斯福路1段8號)
Jingmei Market 景美市場
Add: 137, Jingwen St. (景文街137號)
Zhonglun Market 中崙市場
Add: 76, Sec. 3, Bade Rd. (八德路3段76號)
