On Saturday nights, prospective buyers gather on the outskirts of this small village, in the darkness of a parking lot next to a semi-abandoned railway station. Using flashlights, they inspect the offerings local farmers have piled in the trunks of their vehicles, then haggle over price.
It might seem an unusually clandestine way to sell produce. Then again, this market is for one of the world's most prized foodstuffs, the black truffle.
But perhaps more surprising is that a truffle trade would be thriving here, in the arid and thinly populated hills of east-central Spain.
The black truffle, with its pungent aroma, is, after all, a mainstay of French gastronomy. Spaniards barely eat them. Scientifically known as the Tuber melanosporum, it is even commonly known as the Perigord truffle, after the French region that long led in its production.
But France's truffle output has collapsed over the past century, through wars and industrialization that encouraged farmers to switch to crops with shorter production cycles. Changes in the climate — severe droughts and heat waves — have also hurt production recently.
Last year, France produced 56 metric tons of truffles, compared with a peak of 1,040 tons in 1904, according to historical data from the French federation of truffle growers.
At the same time, Spain's production has been growing rapidly — to about 45 tons a year.
Luckily for the French, and others, however, Spanish cuisine rarely uses the truffle. In fact, about 95 percent of what Spain produces is exported to France and other markets — even if some of it gets relabeled as Perigord truffle.
"Spain is now producing what is missing in France," said Eric Bienvenu, a French truffle broker, who buys truffles from farmers to supply French restaurants.
The quality of the Spanish black truffle, he argued, is "at least as good" as that grown in France, "even if most French will of course tell you that theirs are better."