Centuries-Old Tradition Handed Down – But Innovation Never Forgotten

The founder of Taipei Leechi (台北犁記), Zhang-Lin Li (張林犁), started learning the cake and pastry trade at the tender age of 12. Diligently mastering the skills passed to him by the masters under which he trained, he opened the original Leechi (犁記) shop in the city of Taichung in the late Qing Dynasty, using the“li”(犁) from his given name in the name of his bakery.

Today's Taipei Leechi proudly follows the traditions of the mother shop that earned the firm its far-flung reputation, but also makes room for the concerns of the modern-day consumer—their concentration on health-promoting foods and their constant search for novel tastes. According to third-generation proprietor Zhang Yi-zhou (張沂州), he is not afraid of losing money, but afraid he cannot source premium ingredients in keeping with family tradition. With each bite of their offerings—the green-bean cakes (綠豆椪), pineapple cakes (鳳梨酥), and especially the signature treat, small green-bean mooncakes (綠豆小月餅)—it is obvious how much meticulous care has been taken in their preparation. As proof of their famed quality, famed actors Brigitte Lin (林青霞) and Jackie Chan (成龍) have made special trips here.

A Longstanding Source of Great Tastes "Hidden" in a Venerable Market

Each day starts in the very same way—the Yongle Market (永樂市場) in the old Dadaocheng (大稻埕) community has just opened, and over in the corner at Lin He Fa Rice and Rice Cakes (林合發油飯粿店) a line quickly forms in front of the store. The owner and her daughter-in-law get busy right away calling out to customers and ringing up sales for those who've come for a bite of freshly-made oil rice (油飯). At the same time, they deftly make up ordered gift packages containing oil rice, one after the other, for people following traditional Chinese celebratory gift-giving practices in the first month after a child is born.

A family-run business, Lin He Fa's fourth generation is now at the helm. The firm early on concentrated on taro rice cake and niangao (年糕), a type of glutinous-rice cake and prepared oil rice only for traditional holidays and other special events for old-time customers on request. These requests increased steadily, and eventually oil rice emerged as the main product. Fourth-generation Wu Pei-ci (吳珮慈) has learned the secrets of the trade from her mother-in-law, and says the key“secrets”are the insistence on premium Taiwan-grown glutinous rice, homemade pork fat, and choosing only premium soybean sauce and the most delicious mushrooms, dried shrimp, and other ingredients. Another key is an insistence on the ultimate in freshness for customers—the family gets to work at four in the morning, saying this is the traditional way and that the authentic taste of oil rice exists only in just-made offerings. Changing the old Western expression, in Taiwan“the proof is in the oil rice,”the steady stream of contented customers at this century shop proves that the Lin He Fa traditional way is the true way.

Old-Time 140-Year-Old Flavors Once Delivered by Shoulder Pole

In 1867, the first generation of the Guo (郭, also spelled as Kuo) family arrived in Shilin (士林), and quickly set up a shop, opening Shilin's first cake and pastry business. During the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), young 18-year-old Guo Qin-ding (郭欽定), from the third generation, began learning the family skills at the hand of his father, and working local channels to acquire precious flour and sugar. He'd diligently head out with their goods on a shoulder pole, calling out throughout the area, making the Kuo Yuan Ye name known to one and all. The reputation of Kuo Yuan Ye Foods (郭元益糕餅店) exploded soon after the Second World War, to the point that supplies could not be obtained fast enough for the family's iconic green-bean paste. The solution was found by inventing a new paste using both green beans and white beans, proving greatly popular with customers and further distinguishing Kuo Yuan Ye Foods from the competition.

Though a heritage shop, Kuo Yuan Ye has not restricted itself to Chinese-style cakes and pastries. It has developed a line of delectable Western treats as well, with its wedding cakes especially sought out. Another pleasant surprise is the museum dedicated to confectionaries set up at the original location in honor of the family firm's founder, the Kuo Yuan Ye Museum of Cake & Pastry (郭元益糕餅博物館), where visitors gain better understanding on the hows and whys of traditional confectioneries through info displays and, even better, through sessions where they can try their hand at preparation DIY-style.

Aroma Brimming Over–The Small Noodle Stand that Grew Very Big

In 1895, during a summer and autumn season heavy with typhoons that prevented them from going out to fish, the Hong (洪) family took to bringing noodles by shoulder pole to their local temple in the southern city of Tainan to bring in some income, using the old rural expression Du Xiao Yue (度小月) or“passing the slack season”as the name for their little enterprise.

The simple noodle dish comes with a tasty soup stock made by boiling fresh and plump flavour-rich shrimp heads, with savory minced, lean pork spread atop and accompanied by a special house mix of condiments. The recipe captures the earthy and hearty flavors of the countryside, and business flourished from the beginning. To satisfy demand, full-fledged restaurants have long been in operation, including in Taipei.

The three popular Taipei outlets have a strong air of nostalgia, outfitted with clones of the low stools used a hundred years ago, mock-ups of old street-vendor stands, the small stoves carried on shoulder poles bubbling with cooking noodles and wrapped up in the mouth-watering aroma of cooking minced pork. To pass through the portals into these venerable establishments is to pass back through time, sitting yourself down amongst the fragrances, tastes, and ambiance of the Taiwan of a century ago.

True Original Flavors – Freshness Means Soup That Is Good

Jin Chun Fa Beef Noodles (金春發牛肉麵店) is now in its fourth generation of family ownership. Though it has been moved many times, the flagship outlet remains in the original area behind Taipei Main Station. Simple beef-noodle dishes reign supreme here, following tried and true recipes, bringing steady streams of both old-time and new customers. According to third-generation member Chen-Lin Zhi-xian (陳林芝嫻), the key to the restaurant's success is that it exactly follows the recipes and preparation methods handed on by her mother-in-law, created well over a century ago—and the main edge over competitions is the secret broth, tastier than all challengers.

Unlike most beef soup stewed with soy sauce, the broth in Jin Chun Fa's beef soup achieves its distinctive taste by stewing without added ingredients. Only the freshest beef is used, avoiding the taste change that is brought with refrigerated beef, and the only flavorings used are rock sugar and salt. This allows the natural character of the beef to come through. The authentic“century”flavor of the Jin Chun Fa approach wafts through the air as the most savory of scents as the broth is ladled over the beef slices, which have been either stir-fried or boiled.