For many a traveler from overseas, the first thought of autumn is the flaming red maple tree. For the citizens of Taipei, however, the first image that pops into the head is that of Yangmingshan (陽明山) all dressed in white. An excursion up into the hills to soak in the silver-grass flowers, look over steam-spewing fumaroles, and immerse oneself in simmering hot-springs is an autumn rite of passage—and a rite observed on many occasions during this season.
Yangmingshan is often called the city's“backyard garden,”and this is a wonderful place to enjoy the beauty of the island's four seasons. On both the high slopes and down in the valleys, the silver-grass flower reigns supreme, blossoming everywhere, blanketing everything. Among the many picturesque tableaux created, however, local folks find those at Qingtiangang (擎天崗) and Xiaoyoukeng (小油坑) most bewitching.
Traffic to these spots also happens to be very convenient, and pathways mostly level and easily traversed. Long in the past, Qingtiangang was en route to the aborigine hunting ground and mining of sulphur; here in the 21st century the plateau is a popular weekend recreation spot for the local citizenry, featuring a lovely grassland and meandering pathways. Occasionally, you'll even see a herd of water buffalo grazing. The high-mountain vistas are expansive and inspiring, and not surprisingly this is an oft-used location for wedding photos and shoots for pop dramas. Each autumn, the silver-white of the silver-grass bloom gradually paints over the green-grass backdrop, and when gentle breezes arrive the fields become a swaying“sea of silver grass,”a vivid natural canvas the autumn visitor to this city should always treat themselves to.
A good choice for viewing of the blossoms are Qingtiangang's loop paths. Another is to walk the northern section of the“Ancient Pathway of the Fish”(Yulu Trail; 魚路古道); in former times, fish traders from nearby Jinshan (金山) on the north coast would walk through here on their way over the mountains to today's Shilin (士林) district in Taipei to do their selling. The section connecting with Qingtiangang stretches about five kilometres, entails comfortably moderate hiking, and brings the traveler across vivid pictures one after the other. Another recommended selection is the “Japanese Road”(Riren Road; 日人路), so named because during the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), this route was used for hauling artillery over the hills. The walking is level and easy.
Xiaoyoukeng (小油坑) is another splendid location for the appreciation of silver-grass blossoms. The tableau here is a unique one—silver-grass flowers and massive fumaroles, the swirling whites of the smoke and the petals creating magical, otherworldly imagery. Xiaoyoukeng contains the largest fumarole on the Mt. Datun (大屯山) area, regarded with good reason as one of Taipei's most precious natural treasures, and of course provides irrefutable proof that there is still bubbling subterranean activity in this locale of extinct volcanoes. The unique terrain attracts many geology specialists from overseas.
After an enjoyable session of flower-gazing high up around Xiaoyoukeng, head over to Lengshuikeng (冷水坑). Among the pretty scenes here is the lovely Jingshan Suspension Bridge (菁山吊橋), which at times seems to hang in mid-air, enveloped in sulphurous smoke from the sulfur pits here. The white sulfur deposits have created one eye-catching body of liquid called“Milk Lake”(牛奶湖). People come here to enjoy the public bathing pools and other facilities maintained by the Yangmingshan National Park administration. Following the Japanese style, there is a pool for soaking the feet and separate bathing pools for both men and women; bathing is done naked, and before entering the waters thorough cleansing of the body is required. The waters, at around 40 degrees Celsius, are a bit cooler than most hot-springs and are rich in iron. The Western traveler will find the Lengshuikeng experience both thoroughly novel, and thoroughly relaxing and invigorating.
If time allows, after your soothing hot-spring soak, why not move over to one of the popular nearby cafFor those looking for a full meal of the fullest quality, experiment among the many fine restaurant choices nearby Pingjing St., choosing from among Thai, Italian, and authentic local Taiwan culinary outings. The emphasis is on freshness, for most everything used is raised locally. If you have your own vehicle, the Pingdengli (平等里), a little further on, offers additional treats. Roadside kiosks sell a fine menu of food treasures produced by the local farms and orchards, including fresh fruits and vegetables plus special-taste handmade miniature versions of the iconic steamed bread called mantou (饅頭). The mantou contain a variety of tasty local-produce ingredients such as green tea, blueberry, and taro. The colors of these Taipei specialty breads are rich, and the taste is even better.
Time now to head down off the high Yangmingshan hills to Beitou (北投) at their foot. Here, from Sep. 30 to Nov. 30, devotees of the hot-spring experience flock to soak up the joy of the many Taipei Hot Springs Season (臺北溫泉季) events. There are arts and culture activities of a kind you might well imagine and many you most likely won't, and there's also the Taiwan Hot Springs & Gourmet Festival (臺灣溫泉美食嘉年華) and“Taiwan 18 Hot Springs Resorts Exhibition”(臺灣18溫泉區展覽). After a long day traipsing about the mountains enjoying nature's flower show, where else would you go to rest your weary body but Beitou?
One of the best ways to get to know the seasons of Taipei is to get to know her flowers, silver grass in autumn, and azaleas and cherry blossoms in spring. This has long been a favorite part of the Taipei way of life. So why not take a day to revel in the Yangmingshan show, discovering—even before the opening of the giant Taipei International Flora Exposition this autumn—just why this city calls itself the“city of flowers.”
